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A Matter of Taste
Carr’s Restaurant
50 W. Grant Street, Lancaster PA
299-7090

by Sue Barry

Carr’s is to the Lancaster restaurant scene as Mercedes-Benz is to premium luxury cars. The top of the line – smooth, sophisticated and having that international flare. So, the next time you want to make a trek to the heart of downtown Lancaster for dinner, steer clear and head straight to Carr’s Restaurant, for it will be a grand gastronomical ride.

Carr’s Restaurant (formerly Market Fare Restaurant) is owned and operated by Tim Carr and is located at the end of the Hagar Arcade, directly across the bricked alleyway from Lancaster’s Central Market. Entering through the corner doors and just to your left on the upper level you will find Carr’s minimalist-style sushi, sake, and martini bar. Save that more casual dining experience for another time. Instead, descend down the stairway and enter into the main restaurant, which resembles anything but a basement. Steeped in burnt sienna and deep gold colors, the interior sponge-painted walls — one graced with a European-style mural — and the stately dark wood accents of Carr’s give the feel of the Provençal countryside.

A host will seat you in one of numerous dining areas. There is an open room with partial walls, and another where you can view premium bottles of wine behind glass in the wine cellar. You can sit off to the side of the back of the open hallway and watch waiters flit back and forth from their stations or choose to eat in the smoking section (small bar) where three high backed booths keep intimacy close at hand.

The wait staff is adept and ready to serve. Cocktails arrive promptly with a little something to keep your hunger pangs at bay as you peruse the menu — roasted pepper hummus with oh, so à propos Carr’s brand table water crackers.

We chose to bypass soup when we saw the appetizer list. Chili-grilled Breast of Duckling ($11.50), Batter Fried Chesapeake Oysters ($9.95), Fresh Fried Calamari ($8.75), Mediterranean Pizza ($8.95), Asian Dim Sum ($10.95.)

Asian Dim Sum! That was it! Based on the traditional dim sum style of Chinese dining, small morsels of various delicacies are yours for the taking with the appetizer Asian Dim Sum, large enough to share. And, with this dish, Carr’s takes feng shui — the Chinese art of placement — to extremes. A delicious, hot and spicy Asian slaw serves as the bed on a beautiful square, glazed, mottled green platter topped with asparagus, sweet potato, and beet tempura. Shrimp toast and chicken satay are placed just so next to the tempura with a chopstick-studded pork steamed dumpling and soy-based dipping sauce. The taste was as delightful as the presentation.

A large house salad with a variety of fresh mixed greens and spinach accompanies dinner. Tossed with citrus vinaigrette with hints of lemon, lime, orange and raspberry, this salad is light and refreshing. A Caesar Salad of crisp romaine with house-made dressing and thin, crispy asiago cheese crostini can be substituted for a mere $1.00 — the best deal in the house. Ordered as an entreé, it will cost you $7.95. Add chicken ($6.50), Atlantic Salmon ($7.50) or Char-grilled Gulf Shrimp ($8.50), and you have a salad entreé that could feed a few. Other entreé sized salads offered are Asian Chop Chop Salad with Tempura Shrimp ($17.25), and Australian Loin of Lamb ($18.75.)

Delicious warm bread with whipped butter is difficult to resist. Make sure that the roasted pepper chick-pea paste remains on the table. It is a must-try as a spread on this great bread.

Crisp phyllo cup spinach-gorgonzola gnocchi are paired with tender, melting Veal Mignonettes ($25.75) as an entrée. The gnocchi are fluffy but have a good chew. Fresh herbs and a blend of cheeses fills the airy, house-made Basil Ravioli ($23.95), which is topped with sweet and tiny clams in their shell, extra large shrimp and crabmeat, rounded out with roma tomato it stays afloat in garlic and fresh herb sauce.

Soy Marinated Ahi Tuna ($23.50) comes grilled only one way — the only way — rare, so you can taste the tuna. Any other degree of doneness and you will only taste the marinade. Carr’s tuna was one of the best prototypes I have had, served on wasabi mashed potatoes with spicy kung pao calamari, peanuts and vegetables. Try a quality sauvignon blanc as a natural pair with this dish.

A contemporary spin on a French classic, Seafood Bouillabaisse ($24.50) features a variety of seasonal fish and shellfish. Variety is right. Meaty jumbo shrimp, huge scallops, calamari rings and tentacles, lump crabmeat, and chunks of whitefish that holds up to the lovely saffron tinted, fennel infused tomato broth. All of this surrounds a firm yet creamy timbale of risotto.

There is something for everyone here from a five-ounce or nine-ounce grilled Filet Mignon ($22.95/$28.95), unadulterated save herbed matre d’ butter, to a simple char-grilled Atlantic Salmon Filet ($20.50) with vegetables du jour. A popular Lancaster County organically raised French-style Chicken ($19.75), is served with garlic chive potato purée, ragout of wild mushrooms, and rosemary infused marsala jus.

If you have any room left, try the chocolate crème brûlée. The dense, rich and thick custard arrives in a square ramekin large enough to share.

So the next time you would like to travel to downtown Lancaster for dinner, make Carr’s Restaurant your destination.

Carr’s Restaurant Checklist
Entrees - $15.95 - $28.95
Average Dining Time - 60 minutes

Location
Across from Lancaster’s Central Market

Parking
Lot next door

Handicapped Access
Call ahead

Exterior Appearance
End of Hager Arcade

Initial Interior
Dark wood stairwell

Reservations Necessary
 Preferred on weekends

Preferred Dining Attire
 Stylish casual

Wait (to be seated)
None

Wait (for service)
None

Lighting
Subtle

Meal-time Music
Subtle

Dining Area Appearance
 White linen

Noise
Fine

Climate
Fine

Tables
Comfortable

Chairs
Comfortable

Booths
High backed booths in bar

Table setting
Full

Your meal
Excellent

Automatically served
 Roasted pepper hummus with crackers

Cocktails
Nice wine list

Soups
N/A

Salads
Fresh mixed greens & spinach w/citrus vinaigrette

Main Course
Soy Marinated Ahi Tuna on wasabi mashed potatoes

Desserts
Chocolate crème brûlée

Coffees/Teas
Good

Staff Attitude
Adept

Staff Appearance
 Professional

Hospitality
Welcoming

Cleanliness
Very clean

Wash Rooms
Clean

Crowd (Qty)
Full

Crowd (attitude)
Friendly

Food (portions)
Sizeable

Overall Service
Hospitable

Payment Accepted
All major Credit Cards
 


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